SCALA Malta: Mediterranean with classical French techniques in Mdina
Mediterranean with classical French techniques · Mdina, Malta
Our Review of SCALA, Mdina
Food at SCALA: 15/20
Restaurants used to just serve food, now they have a purpose. SCALA is Italian for stairs and the team tell us "for thousands of years, stairs have been a physical representation of spiritual elevation, the climb to knowledge, achievement and enlightenment. Just like a staircase symbolically suggests a journey between two spaces, SCALA uses this analogy to welcome its guests to step into its own journey." Thank you Grasshopper. Never mind, the cooking is good here. A Mediterranean cuisine "with some classical French cooking techniques," and chef-owner, Sheldon Sammut knows his stuff. He cooked at the Phoenicia and with Victor Borg at Under Grain. He is also innovative. Take the cheese & onion doughnut, with Alsace bacon at €9, a first for me and I'm sure you. Also novel is the handmade filled linguine with caramelised onions, chèvre, and preserved lemon at €22. How can a Linguine be "filled" I hear you ask, and so did I. The answer is it is a particularly wide one, wrapped round a goats cheese and baked like a tart. Quite delicious. Also outstanding is the rigatoni 'gentile selection', duck ragù, tomato, black olives, with preserved orange €17/€23. Well chosen flavours, well matched together. Amongst other starters we particularly enjoy the yakitori grilled octopus at €18, and the local red prawn carpaccio at €20. For those channelling their peasant roots there is a beef tartare at €17, or for veggies an aged acquerello zuchinni risotto at €17/€23. A bit boring. This was true of the mains generally. Why is there always so much beef on Maltese menus? Only six mains two of which are beef - a fillet at €38 and a côte de boeuf (Based On Market Price/I hate to think). Chicken supreme is also a bit boring. At least there's a BBQ pork cutlet with Japanese plum sauce at €32, and a daily fish. Most innovative is the milk-fed veal & morteau sausage caillettes with roasted tomato & local honey fondue at €35. A caillette is a parcel of minced meat. A sort of upmarket gourmet French burger. Rich, but worth trying.
Atmosphere at SCALA: 7/10
There are three good restaurants in a row on this hill outside Mdina, and there is a good view from the terrace overlooking the Island. But beware traffic if you sit there, as you listen to the 'boy racers' showing off to their girlfriends. Stand well back also as you wait for your Bolt after dinner. Inside is a safer bet, and SCALA recently had a refit that was worth it. It feels more upmarket and cool. The crowd is truly mixed, locals whether Maltese or expats, and tourists. There are several different rooms which is a good idea as it means the noise level is kept down.
Service at SCALA: 8/10
The boys who serve are both friendly and efficient. The wine list is intriguing, and compiled by someone who knows their wine. A couple of gripes – not all bottles have vintages (how can anyone drink Bordeaux less than five years old?), and the choice is much more on the light side than the earthy. But we particularly enjoyed an old Amarone (though 2015 not 2013 as advertised). And I have my eye on some spectacular French whites if I am ever being treated by a rich girlfriend dating a boy racer. Address & Contact 26, Saqqajja Hill, Mdina MDN1400 Phone: +356 99140297 Email: journey@scala.mt
Cuisine
Mediterranean with classical French techniques
Price Level
€€€
Ratings
SCALA — Frequently Asked Questions
What type of food does SCALA serve?
SCALA is a Mediterranean with classical French techniques restaurant in Mdina, Malta.
How expensive is SCALA?
SCALA is rated €€€ for price (on a scale of € to €€€€€).
Where is SCALA in Malta?
SCALA is located in Mdina, Malta at 26, Saqqajja Hill, Mdina MDN1400.
Is SCALA worth visiting?
SCALA scored 30/40 in our independent Malta Guide review, covering food quality (15/20), atmosphere (7/10) and service (8/10).
Can I book a table at SCALA online?
Yes, SCALA accepts online reservations via their official website.