Esensia Malta: Italian in Sliema
Italian · Sliema, Malta
Our Review of Esensia, Sliema
Food at Esensia: 14/20
Sicilian chef/proprietor Salvatore started cooking when he was only eleven, and couldn't wait to run a restaurant. He's turned on by creating new dishes and experimenting with different flavours and perfumes, hence 'Esensia'. If this wasn't eccentric enough, he has partnered with a sushi chef, Max to create their own two stream restaurant in Sliema. Sushi is not rare in Malta, nor is Sicilian cooking, but experimentation is, so we stuck to Salvatore's channel. It doesn't help that Salvatore experiments and changes the dishes - the online menu is not a reliable guide, and dishes don't always work. But the best certainly do. His triumph is the Black & Gold Risotto at €32.00, made with black truffle, caramelized pears, hemp walnuts, crispy speck, jus, and mandarin zest. Red Prawns Obsession at €23.00 (crispy red prawns with Beluga caviar, squid ink tuile, black garlic sweet & sour sauce, and lemon pearls) was good and very different. Deep fried on the outside, but still raw on the inside. Thermidor-style escalopes at €19.00 with a bulgur quinoa and chia seed crust were also tasty, if not very filling. The main courses were not as successful – getting meat cooked the way you like it appears to be challenging. Hopefully this will change.
Atmosphere at Esensia: 6/10
Outside this place is hidden by a screen presumably set up to allow a handful of outside tables the busy Tower road. This is a mistake, as it gives a bad first impression. Inside is much better, although you may have to get Salvatore to turn the music down (I wanted him also to dim the lights but was physically restrained from doing so by my partner). It was quiet the night we were in, with a mix of locals and tourists, who clearly were into food experimentation as we are. The banquettes are comfortable.
Service at Esensia: 8/10
Make sure to chat to Salvatore, who has an infectious enthusiasm for his art. Be patient. When he is also mixing the cocktails you can get a little thirsty, maybe phone ahead. It might be best to sit at a table with a good sight line. The wine list has its moments. Plenty of cheap Sicilians – take the Etna Bianco at just €22 – and there was a very serviceable Amarone at €60. The local Jean Parisot is overpriced at €150. I guess some tourists pay up for the best of the white locals. Address & Contact Dingli street, Sliema SLM 1902 Phone: 9922 0364
Cuisine
Italian
Price Level
€€€
Ratings
Esensia — Frequently Asked Questions
What type of food does Esensia serve?
Esensia is a Italian restaurant in Sliema, Malta.
How expensive is Esensia?
Esensia is rated €€€ for price (on a scale of € to €€€€€).
Where is Esensia in Malta?
Esensia is located in Sliema, Malta at Dingli Street, Sliema SLM 1902.
Is Esensia worth visiting?
Esensia scored 27/40 in our independent Malta Guide review, covering food quality (14/20), atmosphere (6/10) and service (7/10).