Caviar & Bull Valletta — Modern fine dining restaurant in Valletta, Malta

Modern fine dining, caviar and steak-led · Valletta, Malta

Our Review of Caviar & Bull Valletta, Valletta

Food at Caviar & Bull Valletta: 14/20

Caviar is never cheap and it sure ain't here. Beluga comes at €495 for 50g, which the Shah of Persia would consider a half portion. I was tempted, but my own autocrat, the Editor, really wouldn't allow it, even at a tenth of that price. It is all about luxury here, and the menu is very reminiscent of a Wall Street pleasure dome after a good day in the market. In feel this restaurant is very different to its older sister, the Caviar & Bull in St Julian's, but the menu has great similarities. It is fine dining, though the emphasis is on steaks and caviar as the title suggests, rather than Michelin-style creations. Among the starters there is some innovation, however. The Lord Prawn (king prawns with thermidor sauce, roasted dandelion salsify and a miso emulsion) is a standout at €26. The pan-seared scallops with passion fruit Hollandaise and mango at €24 are also successful. The sense of luxury is carried through to the Foie Gras Royale at €28, which is both a cooked escalope and a cold parfait with caramelised walnut, Tokaji 'Caviar' and pear. Sadly the brioche served with it is substandard, so keep the bread handy. Among the mains the Seabass Al Sale Nero at €40 is flamed with vodka and served with a Champagne velouté, and is excellent. The steaks are what you would expect: the Black Angus beef rib eye is charcoal grilled and goes for €38, as do the seared duck breast and the lamb rack. The latter is disappointing compared to the one at Casa Bonavita — I guess the English know how to cook lamb best.

Atmosphere at Caviar & Bull Valletta: 7/10

The setting is unusual here. Being at street level in the uber-stylish Romegas hotel, the space is naturally constrained by the historical nature of the property, with lots of small interconnecting rooms. The restaurant seems to spill over either side of the reception area, and is much smaller and less brassy than its older sister. This has the benefit of meaning the noise level is good, but the bar is tiny — just two tables. Plan your pre-dinner cocktail at the table, or elsewhere. Being a hotel in central Valletta, the crowd is obviously dominated by visitors.

Service at Caviar & Bull Valletta: 8/10

Service is very professional here and in the European style. If you do have a cocktail at the table, I can report they are good. The wine list is put together by someone who really understands their wine. It has plenty of high reaches for the high rollers, those Wall Street whizzes who want to show off to their dates and have just had a particularly lucrative IPO. The top fizzes include Cristal 2005 at €1,100 and Dom Pérignon 1993 at €960. A Romanée-Conti 2015 is €5,635 — yes, you read that correctly. As a cheaper alternative to white Burgundies I love white Rhônes, but not at €230 a bottle. Having said that, for those of us with hard-nosed Editors, or who have had bad days in the market, there are also plenty of bargains. Amongst the cheapos, Gavi de Gavi is €35 and the Moreau Chablis is €55. Reds are more of a challenge, but there is a Frank Phelan 2019 at €90 — perhaps better value than the PSI, also at €90.