Song-Qi Malta: Chinese in St Julian’s

Food 14: There is quite a shortage of genuine upmarket Chinese restaurants in Malta, so the arrival of new kid on the block, Song Qi, will cause many gastronomic hearts to skip a beat. Unfortunately it may also cause even more dramatic effects on their bank balances. Being sister to Song-Qi Monaco, Song-Qi Malta is not for those with a lack of funds. The food is generally of good quality, portion sizes are on the small side. The standard dim sum (6 pieces) comes in at €32 and is good without being exceptional. Main dishes are a variety of wok fry ups – chicken (€27), pork (€35), beef (€49). Wagyu is €140. All are served with a choice of sauces, sides are charged separately. The whole Peking duck is €140, those on a budget can have a half for €75. Overall pricing is more Monaco than Malta. Atmosphere 7: Like most newcomers to Malta, Song-Qi comes with its own dream of what it would like to be. “Under the bold vision of decorator Cédric Capron, the restaurant immerses guests in the intimate and captivating atmosphere of the Triads’ secret clubs. The décor plays on striking contrasts, with deep reds, velvet and silk featuring Japanese-inspired patterns, lacquered blacks, and subtle gold accents. Together, they create a sensual tension between power and discretion.” You get the idea. Tension may also come from the noise level which is very high, making conversation difficult if not shouted in your neighbour’s ear. The “soft lighting” might also be referred to as near darkness. Is this a restaurant that wants to be a night club, or a night club that wants to be a restaurant? Service 5: At one point I thought I should google some Cantonese phrases as the staff seemed incapable of following any instruction or request. But then since none of them is Chinese that probably wouldn’t be a good idea. A four course meal took us five hours on a busy night. The wine list is highly priced but not as much as the food, and it has a good range of Italian and French wines. In the whites Sancerre at €65 stands out, a Gavi is €60. Plenty of French reds in the €60-100 bracket, arguably better value than a humble chianti at €90, or Amarone di Valpolicella at €118.