The Fork and Cork Malta: Modern Mediterranean and Maltese, creative seasonal cooking in Mdina
Modern Mediterranean and Maltese, creative seasonal cooking · Mdina, Malta
Our Review of The Fork and Cork, Mdina
Food at The Fork and Cork: 15/20
Verdict: Carl likes his innovative cooking, and encourages punters to take risks and try new combinations or flavours. Bravo. After an enforced starvation diet at one of Malta's newcomers, it is nice to return to somewhere which sticks closer to the Maltese tradition of generous portions and balanced dishes. Carl Zahra spent a year honing his skills in Scotland before returning to Malta to win the Junior Chef of the Year award in 2009. He spent five years as the head chef of Grill 3301 at the Corinthia Hotel, and then aged just 32, Carl opened the doors to The Fork and Cork just off the historic Mdina gate on Saqqajja Hill. Carl has carved out a reputation for “uncomplicated but creative” seasonal dishes. Amuses bouches were goats cheese arancini and chickpea financier the night we visited. All the starters are high quality and reasonably priced at €18. The Quail breast wrapped in speck, with a prune spread and Cumberland sauce is highly recommended, as are the Sweet potato & feta cheese gyoza, with a runny coconut & peanut satay and a carrot salad. The Twice baked cheese soufflé benefited from a stewed apple & pink peppercorn apple salad, but could have done with more cheese and less egg. The Mille-feuille with whipped ricotta, a shrimp tartar, zucchini, and a basil pesto is rather crusty and of course served cold, which might not be to everyone's taste. The pastas are excellent. We particularly enjoyed the Papiri di Gragnano 'Gentile' selection, with wild mushrooms, roquette pesto and Grana Padano cheese at €19, a wonderful rich autumnal dish. And the main courses were generous. A superb pan seared pavé of sea bass, with seasonal green vegetables, fish emulsion sauce and fermented black garlic aioli is €32. Some dishes are an unusual mixture of traditional and crossover options. Take the roasted breast of duck, with a pulled duck & vegetable spring roll, fennel and duck & orange sauce at €32. This extends to the desserts, which are very interesting. For example coconut & lemon grass pannacotta, with mango and a white chocolate crumble at €9. Or the dark chocolate cheesecake, sablé biscuit, with white chocolate sorbet at €10. Carl likes his innovative cooking, and encourages punters to take risks and try new combinations or flavours. Bravo.
Atmosphere at The Fork and Cork: 7/10
The Fork & Cork is the only one of the four restaurants on Saqqajja Hill not to have an outside terrace with that hill's wonderful view across Malta. At night this may bring back memories of the Hollywood skyline, however, since I have always found dinner on the terrace ruined by the noisy traffic on the busy road below, this is no great loss. Inside the restaurant is well appointed with lots of great art on the walls. Get the view from the window instead. The first floor has several different rooms and can be cosy or busy as you desire. Inevitably, given the proximity to Mdina, the crowd is largely food-loving visitors. They seem to retire to bed early — we were alone at 9.30pm — but at least the noise level is good.
Service at The Fork and Cork: 9/10
I don't think I have ever dined in a restaurant where the chef patron is so 'front of house', and Carl keeps his beady eye on the charming boys. In consequence the service is outstanding: a marked glass was whisked away in seconds. That is also true of the wine list, which shows his considerable knowledge. It is also correctly priced, with top drawer options such as a Côte Rôtie at just over €100, and many others, in the 'Cellar Reserve' collection. Sadly this is all reds only, but for white lovers that old faithful Hamelin Chablis is available, as well as a good Sancerre. There are also plenty of pretty good wines in the €30s for food lovers on a budget, a provision that merits commendation. Address & Contact 20, Is-Saqqajja, Mdina MDN 1400, Malta Phone: +356 7904 7043 Website: https://forkandcork.com.mt
Cuisine
Modern Mediterranean and Maltese, creative seasonal cooking
Price Level
€€€
Ratings
The Fork and Cork — Frequently Asked Questions
What type of food does The Fork and Cork serve?
The Fork and Cork is a Modern Mediterranean and Maltese, creative seasonal cooking restaurant in Mdina, Malta.
How expensive is The Fork and Cork?
The Fork and Cork is rated €€€ for price (on a scale of € to €€€€€).
Where is The Fork and Cork in Malta?
The Fork and Cork is located in Mdina, Malta at 20, Is-Saqqajja, Mdina MDN 1400, Malta.
Is The Fork and Cork worth visiting?
The Fork and Cork scored 31/40 in our independent Malta Guide review, covering food quality (15/20), atmosphere (7/10) and service (9/10).
Can I book a table at The Fork and Cork online?
Yes, The Fork and Cork accepts online reservations via their official website.