Contessa Malta: Southern Mediterranean elevated dining in Floriana (by Valletta City Gate)

Our Review of Contessa, Floriana (by Valletta City Gate)

**Verdict:** Contessa is a great place to take your mother for Sunday lunch if she likes her fizz.

**Food 14**

At Contessa's classic Sunday Brunch there are three menus to choose from. Your choice may depend on who you are with. If you are taking an annoying sprog then maybe choose the bottomless non-alcoholic at €72, if with your Mother then bottomless prosecco at €82, or Rosé at €92. And if you are with a particularly attractive lover then it surely has to be the Barons De Rothschild bottomless champagne at €122.

Starters are very good and served buffet style in the middle of the room. There is a plethora of choice. On the fish side, various smoked salmons, prawns, razor clams and mussels. For non fishy people, quiches, cold cuts and savour croissants. Whilst not exactly gourmet dining, you would have to be particularly picky not to find something you like.

Main courses change each Sunday, but generally they are not quite as glorious as the starters (so dig in to that buffet). The last time we dined there was the local Meagre served niçoise style, grilled local pork loin, and a very good twice baked mushroom soufflé. Rump steak is available for another €10.

Desserts could be better (if only they could tempt a French pastry chef down here) so save your calories for Mr Rothschild's finest.

**Atmosphere 8**

The Phoenicia is a grand international hotel with a mid-century modern feel. The Contessa Restaurant is at the back of the hotel with a magnificent view overlooking Manoel Island and Sliema. Inside is plush traditional decor with comfy chairs, thick carpets, and, joy of joys, tablecloths. Sadly these are not allowed outside on the conservatory/terrace. One waiter explained "they tend to frighten the Americans." Their absence degrades the space a little towards an airport cafe — informality is the curse of contemporary dining. On the other hand, that is where the light is on a winter's day, so make your choice.

There are tourists of course — this is a hotel restaurant. But Sunday Brunch tends to attract a more local crowd of expats and Maltese. Contessa is a great place to take your Mother for Sunday lunch if she likes her fizz.

**Service 8**

Service is both friendly and professional. You won't have to wait long for anything. A particularly nice touch is that the staff are instructed to never allow your glass to be empty. The Phoenicia has an excellent wine list if your palate tires of the fizz and your pockets are full. Even Madame Bollinger admitted the one dish which didn't work with champagne was steak, so you could be forgiven if inclined in that direction. She was a teensy bit biased, but the rest of us really can stick to bubbles.

**Address & Contact**

The Phoenicia Malta, The Mall, Il-Furjana FRN 1478 Phone: 2122 5241